Makalu Mountain: Complete Mountaineering Briefing

Mountain Overview

• Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain in the world at 8463 meters (27766 ft), according to Nepal Himal Peak Profile. (Elevation Variation found in other sources- 8,485 meters (27,838 feet)

• It is located 19 km southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and Tibet (China).

• Makalu is part of the Mahalangur Himalayas, within the Makalu-Barun National Park in Nepal.

• The mountain is known for its steep ridges and pyramid-like shape, making it one of the most challenging peaks to climb.

Key Features of Makalu

• Distinctive Pyramid Summit: Makalu is an isolated peak whose shape is a four-sided pyramid.

• Diverse Climbing Routes: Offers multiple climbing routes, each with its own challenges and rewards. The Southeast Ridge is most popular.

• Challenging Ascent: Climbers must navigate steep rock walls, ice slopes, and unpredictable weather

• Panoramic View: The summit provides breathtaking views of Everest, Lhotse, and Kanchenjunga.

• Biodiversity Hotspot: The Makalu Barun National Park is home to snow leopards, red pandas, musk deer, and wild boars.

• Cultural Fusion: The region is inhabited by Gurung, Rai, and Sherpa communities, known for their rich traditions.

Early Exploration & First Attempts

• Name Origin: Derived from the Sanskrit ‘Maha-Kala’, meaning ‘Big Black’, referring to the Hindu deity Shiva in his destructive aspect.

• 1921: First mapped and photographed by a British reconnaissance expedition from Tibet.

• 1954: The California Himalayan Expedition, led by William Siri, attempted the Southeast Ridge but had to retreat at 7,100 meters (23,300 feet) due to storms.

First Successful Ascent

• May 15, 1955: A French expedition led by Jean Franco achieved the first ascent via the northwest ridge.

• Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy were the first to reach the summit.

Notable Climbs & Records

• 1970: A Japanese expedition successfully climbed Makalu via the west ridge, marking a new route

• 1975: A Yugoslav team led by Aleš Kunaver completed the first ascent of the south face, a highly technical climb

• 1981: Jerzy Kukuczka was the first climber to complete a solo ascent of Makalu via the Northwest Ridge in Alpine style, without supplemental oxygen.

• 1990: Kitty Calhoun became the first woman to climb Makalu via the West Pillar route.

• 2009: The first winter ascent was achieved by Simone Moro and Denis Urubko, overcoming extreme cold and harsh conditions.

• 2022: Karl Egloff set a new speed record by ascending in 17 hours and 18 minutes on May 8, 2022. He climbed without Sherpa support and without bottled oxygen.

• 2022: Adrian Ballinger made the first ski descent, skiing from 15m below the summit to the foot of the glacier.

Notable Achievements of Nepali Climbers (Sherpa)

1.    Ang Chepal Sherpa – First Nepali to Summit Makalu (May 1, 1978)

Note: Earlier Sherpa climbers, such as Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa, who summited in 1955, were often registered under Indian expeditions and considered Indian nationals at the time.

2.    Lakpa Sherpa (Makalu Lakpa)

• Known as "Makalu Lakpa," he has summited Makalu eight times.

• Holds the Guinness World Record for the fastest triple ascent of Makalu in a single season, within 16 days in 2022.

3.   Five Sherpa Siblings from Sankhuwasabha

• In May 2025, five Sherpa siblings—Ang Dawa Sherpa, Muktu Lakpa Sherpa, Ngima Dorchi Sherpa, Pechumbe Sherpa, and Pasang Yangi Sherpa summited together.

4.   Mingma Dorchi Sherpa

• He summited Makalu five times (2012, 2017, 2019, 2022, and 2024).

• He holds the Guinness World Record for the fastest consecutive summits of Everest and Lhotse, achieved in 6 hours and 1 minute.

5.   Dawa Yangzum Sherpa

• First Nepali woman to summit Makalu (May 29, 2019)

6.  Mingma Gyabu Sherpa- led the first all-Nepali team to summit Makalu on May 15, 2014.

7.  Sanu Sherpa: First person to have climbed all 14 world's 8,000-meter peaks twice, and he summited Makalu in 2019 and again in 2022.

Critical Information

• Fatality Rate: 9-12%, making it one of the more dangerous 8,000-meter peaks.

• Best Climbing Window: Late April to mid-May.

• Expedition Duration: 45-60 days

• Summit Success Rate: 34% (historically), though recent expeditions have seen higher success rates.

• Makalu-Barun National Park: A UNESCO World Heritage site.

Climbing Costs & Logistics

• Permit Fees: $450 to $1800, depending on the season (Foreigners).

• Helicopter Evacuation: Costs can exceed $5,000, making insurance essential.

• Sherpa Support and Logistics: Adds $15,000–$35,000 to the total expedition cost.

• Total Expedition Cost: $35,000–$85,000 per person.

Major Routes on Mount Makalu

• Southeast Ridge: Standard route but prone to rockfall and avalanches.

• Northeast Ridge: Involves steep snow, ice, and mixed terrain.

• West Pillar: Exposed to strong winds.

• West Face: Passes through avalanche-prone areas.

Southeast ridge of Mt. Makalu

Advance Base Camp (5,600m)- Preparation and acclimatization point

1.     Camp 1 (6,100m)

• Climbers ascend through rock slabs, moraine, and glacier terrain.

• Takes 3–4 hours to reach from Base Camp.

2.    Camp 2 (6,500)

• Requires crossing steep ice sections.

• No ladders are needed, but ropes are essential for safety.

• Takes around 3 hours to reach from Camp 1.

3.    Camp 3 (7,400m)

• Requires navigation through crevasses.

• Takes 4–5 hours to reach from Camp 2.

4.    Camp 4 (7,800m)

• The final camp before the summit push.

• Climbers face extreme exhaustion and oxygen deprivation.

• Takes 3–4 hours to reach from Camp 3.

5.    Makalu Summit (8,463m)

• Climbers begin the summit push from Camp 4 before midnight.

• Requires navigating 50–60-degree snow slopes, steep rock bands, and ice cliffs.

Base Camp Approach Route (Detailed Itinerary)

• Kathmandu to Tumlingtar: Domestic Flight (45 minutes)

• Tumlingtar to Chichira: Drive (3-4 hours)

• Chichira to Num (1560m): Trek (7 hours)

• Num to Seduwa (1535m): Trek (5-6 hours)

• Seduwa to Tashigaon (2085m): Trek (4-5 hours)

• Tashigaon to Khongma Danda (3500m): Trek (5-6 hours)

• Acclimatization Day at Khongma Danda

• Khongma Danda to Dobate (3655m): Trek via Shipton La Pass and Keke La Pass (6-7 hours)

• Dobate to Yangle Kharka (3600m): Trek (4-5 hours)

• Yangle Kharka to Langmale Kharka (4400m): Trek (4 hours)

• Langmale Kharka to Makalu Base Camp (4870m): Trek (maximum 5 hours)

Conclusion